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TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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Photographic 

Sciences 
CorporatJon 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREE' 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  MS  80 

(716)  872-4503 


^^ 


r^^-^ 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  canadien  de  microreproductions  historiques 


?^ 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  tachniquas  at  bibliographiquas 


Tha  Instituta  has  attamptad  to  obtain  tha  bast 
original  copy  availabia  for  filming.  Faaturas  of  this 
copy  which  may  ba  bibliographically  uniqua, 
which  may  altar  any  of  tha  imagao  in  tha 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
tha  usual  mathod  of  filming,  ara  chackad  balow. 


r~yi    Colourad  covars/ 
iVl    Couvarture  da  couiaur 

0    Covars  damaged/ 
Couvarture  andonimagie 


D 


0 

a 


n 


n 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couvarture  restaurie  et/ou  pelliculAe 


I — I    Cover  title  missing/ 


Le  titra  de  couverture  manque 


Coloured  meps/ 

Cartes  gtographiques  en  couleur 


Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bieue  ou  noire) 


I    1    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


D 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  matwittt/ 
Reli*  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
aiong  interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  serr^e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distqrsion  Is  long  de  la  marge  intirieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  tha  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
heve  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
19  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajouties 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
maia,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  M  film^es. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  supplAmentaires; 


L  Instltut  a  microfilm*  le  meilleur  sxemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  it*  possible  de  se  procurer.  Lrs  details 
de  cat  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-itre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  methods  normalr  de  filmage 
sont  irdiquis  ci-dessojs. 

□    Coloured  pages/ 
Pagee  de  couleur 

□    Pages  damaged/ 
?ages  endommagias 

p~|    Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 


to 


0 


Pages  restauries  et/ou  pelliculies 

Pagea  discolourea,  stained  or  foxe( 
Pages  d*color6es,  tachaties  ou  piquaes 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d*tach*es 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  prir 

Qualiti  inigala  de  {'impression 

Includes  supplementary  materit 
Comprend  du  materiel  supplimentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


r~^  Pagea  discolourea,  stained  or  foxed/ 

I      I  Pages  detached/ 

I      I  Showthrough/ 

I      I  Quality  of  print  varies/ 

r~n  Includes  supplementary  material/ 

pn  Only  edition  available/ 


Th 
po 
of 
til 


Oi 

b« 
th 
si< 
ot 
fii 

3l( 

or 


Tl 
sh 
Tl 
w 

M 
di 
ar 

b« 

ril 
re 
m 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  psges  totalement  ou  partieilement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc..  ont  M  filmies  d  nouveau  de  facon  A 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film*  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu*  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


26X 


30X 


/  .     .      


12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


Th«  copy  filmed  h«r«  has  b««n  r«produc«d  thanks 
to  ths  ganarosity  of: 

Seminary  of  Quebec 
Library 


L'axampiaira  flimA  fut  raproduit  gr4ca  i  la 
O^nArositA  da: 

Siminairtt  de  QuMmc 
Bibliothdque 


Tha  imagaa  appaaring  hara  ara  tha  bast  quality 
poaaibia  considaring  tha  condition  and  latiiblilty 
of  tha  original  copy  and  in  kaaping  with  tha 
filming  contract  spacificationa. 


Laa  imagea  suivantaa  ont  M  raproduitas  avac  la 
plus  grand  soin,  compta  tanu  da  la  condition  at 
da  la  nattati  da  l'axampiaira  filmA,  at  9n 
conformity  avac  laa  conditions  du  contrat  da 
fllmaga. 


Original  copiaa  in  printad  papar  covars  ara  fiimad 
beginning  with  tha  front  covar  and  anding  on 
tha  last  paga  with  a  printad  or  illuatratad  impraa- 
sion.  or  tha  back  covar  whan  appropriate.  All 
othar  original  copiaa  ara  fiimad  beginning  on  tha 
first  page  with  a  printad  or  iilustrsted  impree- 
aipn,  and  anding  on  the  laat  page  with  a  printad 
or  illustrated  impression. 


Les  exempiairea  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  eat  Imprim^a  sont  iWmA*  en  commenpant 
par  la  prem'«r  plat  at  9n  tarminant  soit  par  la 
darniAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impreeslon  ou  d'iilustratio.i,  soit  par  la  second 
plot,  selon  le  caa.  Tous  lee  autres  axemplairet 
origineux  sont  filmis  en  commen9aRt  par  la 
pramiAre  page  qui  comporte  une  ampyainte 
d'impreaaion  ou  d'illustration  at  an  tarminant  par 
la  darnlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 


The  Iftst  recorded  frama  on  each  microficha 
shall  contain  the  symbol  —^•(meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  ▼  (meaning  "END"). 
whichever  appiiee. 


Un  dea  symbolee  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
damiAre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  -*>  signifie  "A  SUIVRE".  le 
symbols  ▼  signifie  "FIN". 


Meps.  platea.  charts,  etc..  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratioa.  Thoaa  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  expoaure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  comer,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  aa  many  frames  aa 
required.  The  following  diagrama  illustrate  the 
method: 


Lea  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  ate.  pauvent  Atre 
filmte  A  dea  taux  de  rMuction  diff Grants. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
raproduit  en  un  seui  cilchA.  il  eat  filmA  d  partir 
de  I'angia  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauchv  i  droita. 
at  de  haut  an  baa.  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nAcossaire.  lias  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mAthode. 


1  2  3 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

4         »•*. 


1 4^9  '  ^Ha  o*^*-'^.^- 


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\S  II  LAN  D.LAKE  SUPKRIOlil  AND  T 


I 


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'■•yjsmtr^jg^xi^: 


.wammmM 


I 


I*! 


i 


I 


/ 


"!sm  i .  i  '■!  iTifefea^'itf^aMaiaa 


5/  f     -iu^diu   (a,^.  i.  ^    A'  /-2, 


Y 


THE 


APOSTLE  ISLANDS 


AND 


LAKE  SUPERIOR, 


"  TAe  shadows  round  the  inland  sen 

A  re  deepening  in.'o  night. 
Slow  up  the  slopes  of  Penokee 

They  chase  the  lessening  light. 
Tired  oj  the  long  day's  blinding  heat, 

I  rest  my  languid  eye. 
Lake  oJ  the  North  !  where  cool  and  sweet 

Thy  sun  et  waters  lie! 

Along  the  sky,  in  wavy  lines, 

O'er  isle  and  b^ach  and  bay. 
Green-belted  with  eternal  pines 

The  mountains  stretch  away; 
Below,  the  maple  masses  sleep 

Where  shore  with  water  blends; 
While  midway  on  the  tranquil  deep. 

The  evening  light  descends." 


V' 


.^TrT 


MILWAJKEE: 
CRAMER,  AIKENS  &  CRAMER,  PRINTERS. 

1884. 


Si 


tl 

ta 


tr 


fc 


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as 
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an 


INTRDDUCTinN. 


TOURISTS  who  have  been  abroad  liave 
been  struck  with  the  vigor  of  English 
manhood,  and  with  the  cheerful  voices 
and  fi..e  animal  spir"     of  the  men  and 
women  who  are  met  with  throughout 
the  British  Isles.     On  the  contrary,  for- 
eigners have  observed  in  this  country  a 
decided  tendency  in  the  opposite  direc- 
tion.    In  fact,  the  "hurry  and  drive" 
incident  to  a  rapid  spread  of  civilized 
life  in  a  new  continent  has   produced  an   eager, 
anxious  race,  which  works  at  fever  heat  and  wears 
out  early.     We  must  take  a  lesson  from  our  English 
-"  cousins.     If  we  would  exhibit,  on  this  side  of  the 

Atlantic,  a  race  of  healthy,  hearty  men,  something  must  be  done  to  banish 
the  headaches,  to  quicken  the  torpid  liver,  to  relieve  the  strain  on  the  over- 
taxed brain. 

Seymour  Haden,  the  well-known  etcher,  has  recently  visited  this  coun- 
try. He  is  a  gentleman  of  eminence  not  only  as  an  artist,  but  he  has  for 
years  enjoyed  the  highest  repute  as  a  learned  and  successful  physician. 
Through  all  his  busy  life  he  has  ever  evinced  a  love  for  hunting,  fishing,  and 
for  all  the  sports  of  field  and  forest;  and  it  is  certain  that  his  bounding  health 
and  genial  age  are  largely  due  to  the  out-door  life,  the  fondness  for  which 
is  characteristic  of  his  countrymen.  Being  satisfied  in  his  own  mind  of  the 
benefits  of  summer  vacations  and  short  seasons  of  entire  rest,  he  has  made 
his  plans  to  return,  bringing  with  him  as  large  a  party  of  his  friends 
as  he  can,  to  enjoy  the  health-giving  air  and  the  pleasures  of  fly-fishing  in 
the  brooks  and  streams  which  empty  into  Lake  Superior.  Can  we  not  take 
a  leaf  from  Mr.  Haden's  book,  and  in  this  respect,  at  least,  adopt  the  cus- 
toms of  his  people  ?  In  England  every  one  who  can  lives,  by  preference,  out- 
side the  towns  and  cities.  Their  love  of  the  country  is  a  national  trait, 
and  this   is  portrayed  throughout  much   of  their  literature,   wlilch  is  full 


6 


INTRODUCTION. 


of  delightful  descriptions  of  natural  scenery,  of  the  changing  beauties  of 
earth  and  sky,  of  rugged  headlands  lifting  their  peaks  above  the  clouds,  of 
the  mists  rising  from  some  placid  mountain  lake,  or  of  the  simple  streams 
basking  in  the  sun  through  grassy  meadows  or  loitering  in  clear,  deep  pools. 
Perhaps  our  busy  American  bankers  and  merchants  love  nature  just  as  much, 
and  sometimes  talk  about  it  even  more;  but  they  rarely  take  the  time  to 
enjoy  it  until  cares  and  anxieties  have  taken  off  the  edge  of  their  appetite 
for  healthy  recreation,  and   it   is   too  late  to  restore   their  wasted  health. 
The  American  has  never  learned  how  to  enjoy  himself.      It  is  his  misfort- 
une to  have  pursued  pleasure  in  a  conventional,  tiresome  manner,  at  great 
expense,  with  a  certain  aflfectation  of  fashionable  splendor.      He  has  never, 
since  he  was  a  boy,  been  near  enough  to  nature  to  get  rested.     Perhaps  he 
has  not  had  the  facilities.     Aside  from  the  White  Mountains  and  the  Adiron- 
dacks,  there  are,  in  fact,  few  places  in  eastern  North  America  where  the 
fresh  aroma  of  the  primeval  wilderness  is  still  preserved;  where,  at  the 
same  time,  accommodations  are  sufficiently  comfortable  and  commodious  to 
attract  the  traveler,  whose  happiness  depends  so  much  upon  his  little  com- 
forts.     It  is  believed,  however,  that  a  region  has  at  length  been  made  easily 
accessible  to  the  public,  which  is  unique  in  its  history  and  traditions,  supreme 
in  its  cool,  salubrious  atmosphere,  rich  in  the  variety  and  grandeur  of  its 
scenery,  and  unequaled  in  excellent  accommodations. 

On  the  shores  of  Lake  Superior  are  found  all  the  requirements  for  those 
who  are  seeking  rest,  recreation  and  health.  On  the  banks  of  its  most  beau- 
tiful bav  is  an  immense  hotel,  conducted  by  an  experienced  manager,  sup- 
plied with  every  modern  convenience,  providing  a  table  that  would  tempt  the 
most  fastidious,  with  all  that  heart  could  desire  for  varied  in  and  out  door 
amusement.     The  place  is  found;  the  accommodations  furnished;  the  way  is 

open  ! 

It  is  commonly  supposed  that  away  back  in  history,  before  the  Iroquois 
wars,  the  Jesuits  discovered  Lake  Superior.  It  is  far  from  our  purpose  to 
dispute  their  venerable  claim  ;  there  is  sufficient  originality  in  drawing  atten- 
tion again  to  the  enchanted  land,  with  its  boundless  resources  of  wildness 
and  beauty— to  the  rare  and  secluded  spots  in  which  the  glories  of  Gitchee 
Gumee  are  concentrated. 

Some  years  ago,  Constance  Fennimore  Woolson  wrote  a  series  of  stories 
for  the  Atlantic  Monthly  illustrative  of  early  life  along  the  shores  of  the 
lake,  and  the  reading  world  is  familiar  with  her  more  recent  novel,  "Anne," 
which  has  drawn  further  attention  to  the  great  inland  seas.  Besides  this,  Har- 
per's Magazine  sent  a  writer  and  artist  to  the  ^'New  Wisconsin."    Their  labors 


INTRODUCTION. 


covered  portions  of  the  summers  of  1881,  1882  and  1883.  The  readers  of 
that  magazine  are  familiar  with  the  first  result  of  that  enterprise  through  an 
article  entitled  "Some  Western  Resorts,"  which  appeared  recently;  and  a 
second  article  is  soon  to  be  published,  the  title  of  which  has  been  an- 
nounced as  "The  North  Shore." 

Many  years  ago  we  went,  in  company  with  General  Lewis  Cass  and 
others,  to  La  Pointe— a  spot  near  where  the  town  of  Ashland  is  now  located. 
The  General  Government  had  decided  that,  in  order  to  preserve  the  peace 
between  the  Siouxs  and  the  Ojibways,  it  was  necessary  to  remove  the  weaker 
race,  the  Siouxs  (who  were  in  danger  of  being  exterminated),  to  a  distant 
land.  The  object  of  the  visit  by  Cass  was  to  pay  off  the  last  indemnity  due 
the  Indians.  A  vast  concourse  of  the  western  tribes  assembled  to  take  part 
in  the  ceremony.  They  came  in  all  the  glitter  of  savage  decoration,  and 
camped  on  the  Apostle  Islands,  in  distant  view  of  the  present  site  of  the 
luxurious  Chequamegon.  We  little  thought  then  that  it  would  ever  be  our 
privilege  to  be  connected  with  the  road  which  has  enabled  so  many  to  tra- 
verse the  wilderness  with  all  the  comforts  and  magnificent  ease  that  modern 
railway  science  offers  the  visitor  to  the  enchanted  northern  sea.  It  is  more 
than  a  pleasure  to  lay  before  those  who  have  not  yet  availed  themselves  of 
the  opportunity,  an  account  of  the  beauties  of  the  Superior  country,  its  silver 
mists,  its  marvelously  clear  atmosphere,  its  grand  outlines,  its  blue  waters, 
its  beaches  strewn  with  agates,  amethysts,  and  glittering  minerals,  its  strange 
traditions,  its  vast  caves,  and  the  magnificent  line  of  rocky  heights  which 
enclose  its  waters,  transcending  anything  on  the  Atlantic  coast. 


\\\ 


II 


m 


O 


Ui 


lij 


CO 


CO 


^be  Qpostle  .^slancls  and  baU 


>up 


enor. 


I. 

"You  ask,"  he  said,  "what  guide 
Me  through  trackless  thickets  led — 
Through  thick-stemmed  woodlands  rough  and  wide; 
Or  where  I  found  the  water's  bed  ? 
I  found  that  nature  faithful  is 
To  such  as  trust  her  faithfulness." 


'       "" ^   '  THE  HISTORY  of  the  country 

about  Lake  Superior  is  unlike  that 
of  any  other  portion  of  America. 
It  has  silently  remained  on  one 
side,  concealed  from  view  by  a  vast 
belt  of  almost  impenetrable  forest, 
while  the  tide  of  civilization  has 
moved  past  and  beyond  it.  It 
must  not  be  supposed,  however, 
There  is,  indeed,  no  portion  of 
America  whose  lakes  and  streams  could  tell  more  thrilling 
tales  of  romance  and  adventure  than  those  of  the  "  Superior  " 
country.  Originally,  it  was  occupied  by  hordes  of  nomadic 
Indian  tribes;  but  some  two  hundred  years  ago  the  Canadian 
voyageurs  commenced  trading  in  the  wilderness.  They  were 
a  strange,  romantic,  cheerful  race  of  men,  who  combined  a 
certain  dash  of  border  freedom  with  a  peculiar  cast  of  melan- 
choly sadness:    a   strange  mingling  of  the  traits   of  vagabond 

.ind   r»nf>t     wliir-Vi    mo/^t>   tVif»rr»   fnrry^-fr.   -.-.^^^^-^ 11     __    1 j 

1  ^ ,   ..J..,,!.  .,,iivi%.  liiCiii  icxiiiufUo  nuucia   as  wcii   ub   uravc   ad- 


that  it   was   not   inhabited. 


Scenes  at  Bayfi:-ld,  17  Miles  from  Ashland. 


MMMMMIIill 


LAKE  SUPERIOR, 


11 


venturers.     They  even  created  a  quaint,  sentimental  literature  of 
song,  peculiar  to  themselves,  in  which  were  celebrated  their  trials, 
their  fortunes,  and,  above  all,  their  deeds  of  gallantry.     At  one 
time  the  whole  south  shore  of  Lake  Superior  was  vocal  with  their 
sweet  melodies ;  and  the  traveler  to-day  occasionally  hears  a  strain 
of  these  original  compositions,  which  still  retains  its  fascinating 
charm.     The  old  Hfe  of  the  missions  and  the  legends  of  the  fur 
trade  have  thrown  a  mellow  flavor  of  adventure  about  the  shores 
of  the  northern  lakes  to  be  found  nowhere  else.      Among  the 
characteristic  figures  at  Ashland  and  Bayfield,  seen  by  the  present 
summer  visitor,  are  the  gentle  Franciscan  monks  in   cowl  and 
gown.     The  little  sleepy  settlement  on  Madelaine  Island  was  not 
only  the  centre  of  missionary  life,  but  the  chief  rendezvous  for 
traders.     The  primitive  traffic  has  gone ;  but  worship  is  still  con- 
ducted in  Chippewa  dialect  by  the  Franciscan  Father  Vogt  in  an 
ancient  sanctuary,  on  the  very  spot  where  two  hundred  years  ago 
Pere  Marquette  preached  the  gospel  to  the  aborigines.     To  the 
curious  traveler  familiar  with  their  pa/ois,  the  few  antiquated  voy- 
ageurs  now  living  in  the  village  relate  many  a  stirring  tale.     Stand- 
ing in  that  church  doorway,  the  eye  takes  in  a  scene,  the  com- 
parative impressiveness  of  which  cannot  be  overestimated.     Here 
is  a  combination  of  lake  and   mountain  scenery.     One  should 
have  leisure,  calmness  of  mind  and  reverent  seeking,  to  compre- 
hend the  whole  vision.     In  front  is  the  grave-yard  with  its  tomb- 
stones, on  which  are  odd  inscriptions.     One  tells  of  "  Basil  struck 
by  thunder;"  another  informs  the  reader  that  it  was  "dedicated 
to  the  memory  of  one  who  was  shot  as  a  token  of  affection  by 
his   brother,"   the   reckless  disregard  of  punctuation  conveying 
a  meaning  doubtless  quite  foreign  to  the  intention  of  the  mourn- 
ing relative.     A  litde  farther  on  is  a  decayed  warehouse,  once 
the  headquarters  of  John  Jacob  Astor.     Across  the  bay  is  Bay- 
field; and  glistening  in  the  distance   is   "The  Chequamegon," 
looming  up  like  a  great  casde  against  the  background  of  green. 


12 


THE  APOSTLE  ISLANDS. 


We  can  almost  hear  the  merry  laugh  of  the  children  as  they  play 
on  the  lawn,  or  the  murmur  ot  the  fountains  as  they  throw  their 

silver  spray  high  in  air. 

•         *••••••••• 

It  would  be  impossible  here  to  describe  all  the  interesting 
features  of  the  country;  the  scores  of  streams  swarming  with 
speckled  trout ;  the  myriad  ponds  teeming  with  bass  and  pick- 
erel ;  the  fragrant  forests  of  hemlock,  oak,  pine  and  maple,  full 
of  deer,  which  special  legislation  permits  the  hunter  to  shoot  in 
the  early  part  of  August;  the  picturesque  Indian  villages;  the 
unnumbered  waterfalls  tumbling  into  cool,  rocky  gorges  in  the 
silent  woods;  the  extensive  land-locked  bay,  some  seventeen 
miles  in  length,  affording  a  safe  course  for  amateur  yachting; 
the  endless  stock  of  legendary  lore  and  Indian  myths  made 
familiar  to  the  ear  of  every  sojourner  on  the  shores  of  Gitchee 
Gumee.  It  is  the  agreeable  task  of  summer  wanderers  in  this 
pleasant  northern  land,  far  from  the  heat  and  turmoil  of  the 
city,  with  its  anxieties  and  cares,  to  seek  each  for  himself  that 
which  best  suits  his  temperament  and  taste. 


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II. 


ti  ,  UR  purpose  in  the  previous 
chapter  has  been  to  convey  some 
idea  of  the  hitherto  neglected  and 
little  known  attractions  of  Lake 
Superior,  and  of  the  luxurious  ac- 
commodations provided  for  the 
tourist  by  the  Railway  Company 
"'  at  Ashland.     The  Wisconsin  Cen- 

tral Railroad  is  not  only  the  most  direct  route 
to  the  northern  country,  but  it  leads  to  the  only 
place  on  the  great  lake  where  really  first-class 
accommodations  are  offered.  The  railroad  ride  is  a  very  pleas- 
ant feature  in  itself,  passing,  as  it  does,  through  the  varied  features 
of  cultivated  farm  lands  and  the  dense  forest;  threading  itself, 
now  through  the  finished  landscape,  and  anon  through  a  rocky 
gorge  or  over  an  iron  bridge  thrown  across  a  mountain  torrent. 
The  ease-loving  passenger  can  start  either  from  Chicago  or  Mil- 
waukee on  sleeping  cars  unrivaled  for  elegance,  and  be  carried 
without  change  to  the  very  border  of  the  great  lake. 

Many  parts  of  Wisconsin  might  appropriately  be  named  New 
Germany.  North  of  Milwaukee  are  numerous  towns  where  the 
inhabitants  are  almost  exclusively  German,  One  hears  the 
clatter  of  slowly  whirling  windmills,  with  their  quaint  shingle 
towers,  their  bulging  roofs,  and  sees  the  grotesque  moving 
shadows  of  their  numerous  wings.  There  is  the  same  drowsy 
life  that  Washington  Irving  so  graphically  described.     There  is 


Ill 


Ta 


Hi 


Cedar  Lake, 


LAKE  SUPERIOR. 


16 


the  same  pompous  gravity  as  among  the  old  Dutch  burghers  of 
the  Hudson ;  even  the  pipes  of  long  ago ! 

The  curious  traveler  finds  many  an  odd  character  that  reminds 
him  of  Rip  Van  Winkle.  The  writer  himself,  on  one  occasion, 
was  highly  edified  by  a  peep  into  a  local  dancing  school  at 
Schleisingerville,  the  post-office  town  of  Cedar  Lake.  The  hall 
was  large  and  dimly  lighted,  like  some  old  Ritter-saal.  A  few 
shotguns  were  suspended  on  branching  anders  along  the  wall. 
The  music  was  provided  by  a  fiddler,  who  sat  solitary  and  alone 
in  a  pulpit-hke  gallery  and  droned  forth  his  drowsy  melodies 
from  an  antiquated  instrument.  But  though  the  music  was 
"  slow,"  life  beat  high  in  the  hearts  of  blue-eyed  lads  and  lassies 
as  they  swayed  from  right  to  left.  We  recognized  among  the 
throng  the  guide  of  the  previous  afternoon,  whose  sturdy  arms 
had  propelled  us  across  Cedar  Lake  as  we  trolled  on  its  waters. 
He  took  occasion  to  tell  us,  when  opportunity  occurred,  that,  al- 
though we  thought  ourselves  remarkably  successful  in  securing  a 
fine  catch,  if  we  would  be  on  hand  in  the  morning,  he  would 
show  us  a  new  spot,  where  we  could  angle  to  our  heart's  content. 

Cedar  Lake  is  thirty-three  miles  from  Milwaukee,  in  the  heart 
of  the  German  settlement.  The  railroad  passes  very  near,  but 
yet  not  quite  in  sight  of,  the  lake.  It  is  an  exquisite  body  of 
water,  frequented  somewhat  by  camping  parties,  from  its  prox- 
imity to  the  city.  It  will  soon  become  a  popular  resort.  It  can  be 
readily  reached  by  an  hour's  ride  on  the  Central  train,  which 
leaves  Milwaukee  in  the  early  morning;  so  that  one  can  arrive  on 
the  ground  by  8  o'clock,  fish  and  picnic  all  day,  and  return  to  the 
city  the  same  evening.  Doubtless,  before  long,  some  enterprising 
spirit  will  erect  a  hotel  on  this  favored  spot;  but  at  present 
there  are  no  accommodations,  except  the  humble  cottages  of  the 
resident  farmers. 

Fond  du  Lac  and  Oshkosh  are  next  en  route.     Both  are  busi- 
ness towns  of  importance;  and  in  each  place,  as  at  Ncenah,  twelve 


\l 


il 


Roberts'  Resort,  Neenah,  Wis. 


4,1 


LAKE  SUPERIOfv', 


r«5 


^_ 17 

miles  further  on,  the  Railroad  CompTi^^^l^riZr,       ~ 

the.  exceedingly  convenienf  and  a^L.ite  '      "'^"  '"' 

North  of  Fond  du  Lac,  the  road  skirts  along  Lake  Winn, 
bago,  an  interesting  body  of  water  as  well  fr.  ^'"'^  ^mne- 

sentimental  point  of  view  Byt  gllnce  t  he  '  '"'""'  "^  ' 
seen  that  the  lake  looks  as  if  it^i,  h!  ,  """  "  "'"  ^' 
part  of  Green  Bay  some  lilt  ,         '™  '"  ^'''  ^^'^ '^ 

the  lake  and  the  s^^  urdingfouZ:  dTh  1 T""  '''  ''^'''' 
dred  feet  above  the  level  o   TL^    n  '  "°^ "" '''"'- 

"^i.es  .ong  by  eighteen  wide,  andlr^Tihe  ILT  12  •  ^ 
mun.cat.on  w,th  the  settlements  on  its  banks     Indian  T       v. 

renuentlyanttcipatedthrivingcommercialtntretand^ 
of  Fond  du  Uc,  Oshkosh,  Neenah  and  Menasha  aV    ,    Tl 
on    Lake  Winnebago,  otfer  a  striking   illu^o  7/ r^ 
The  General  Government,  in  connection  with  what  is  kn„ 
the  Fox  River  Improvement  Company,  built  elpensiveH"  " 

thr  Ls^at;:::sS^i;::i:^r  "^^" '-'  ^-- 

ufacturc-s  in  hubs,  spokes,  woo^r^re  rL:  "T^"" 
mg  and  evening  the  streets  are  thronged  wi  h  bu. 

Imon'^tr-  '''  ''  '  ^""  "'  'Het::  wt  inl™:^ 
Among  the  thousand  lakes  for  which  Wisconsin  !=  ••    .,     7 

Winnebago  is  the  largest  and  most  !     ^t    e    Inf  L'""::'^' 
resorts  of  the  West,  Roberts',  on  Doty  Island  4  N.      ]     '      " 
of  the  most  delightful.     The  h    .e  is'b    1    n  .1  ItZ^^^^ 
cottage,  with  spacious  verandas.     It  is  situated  on  ,'"'' 

the  lake  pours  into  the  Fox  River  and  T       T     "'"'"  "'''"" 

In  front  is  a  wide  gray  stretch  of    "  T  '  "  """'  °""°°''- 

c  giay  stretch  ot  water  snuhng    n  the  simh-frKf 


11 


II  I 


The  Chain  o'  Lakes,  Waupaca,  Wis, 


LAKE  SUPERIOR, 


... 19 

r    tance  is  shown  a  long  line  of  hilly  shore^T^wih^^n^^lIm 
their  robes  of  misty  amethyst.     The  fishing  in  the  lake  is  unusu- 
ally  fine,  black  bass  of  great  size  abounding  in  unlimited  num- 
bers.    It  IS  seldom  in  America  that  one  finds  a  summer  hotel  sit- 
uatedm  such  spacious  grounds;  and  there  are  few  places  any- 
where  complete  in  all  respects  as  Roberts',  with  its  pleasant  view 
through  the  trees,  its  charming  panorama  of  the  lake,  its  shady 
groves,  and  the  old  house  (an  adjunct  of  the  larger  hotel),  with 
Its  vme-clad  porch  and  gables,  a  venerable  antiquity,  built  and 
occupied  in  pioneer  days  by  James  Duane  Doty,  the  first  Territo- 
rial Governor  of  Wisconsin.     In  his  time,  it  was  the  scene  of 
many  an  hospitable  entertainment,  sometimes  of  courtly  guests 
and  again  of  Indian  chiefs.      The  "loggery"  contains  sixteen 
rooms,    and  is  often  preferred  to  the  hotel  on  account  of  its 
romantic  associations.     In  full  view  is  the  famous  « treaty  elm  " 
beneath  whose  wide-spreading  branches  was  concluded  many  an 
important  treaty  with  the  tribes,  formerly  sole  occupants  of  the 
country. 

At  Waupaca,  the  traveler  is  130  miles  from  Milwaukee,  and 
2 IS  miles  from  Chicago,  still  on  the  main  line  of  the  Wisconsin 
Central  Railroad.  He  has  reached  what  was  but  a  few  years  ago 
known  as  the  "  Indian  Country."  Now,  the  farmer  has  usurped 
the  Indian's  place;  and  the  country  is  fast  being  reclaimed  from 
a  state  of  nature.  A  river,  navigable  for  canoes  and  rowboats, 
flows  directly  through  the  town,  and  its  inter-vale  has  a  never- 
wearying  charm. 

"The  tasselled  maize,  full  of  grain  or  clover, 
Far  o'er  the  level  meadow  grows, 
And  through  it  like  a  wayward  rover, 
The  noble  river  gently  flows. 

Majestic  elms,  with  trunks  unshaken 

By  all  the  storms  an  age  can  bring, 
Frail  sprays  whose  rest  the  zephyrs  waken, 

Yet  lithesome  with  the  juice  of  spring." 


20 


THE  APOSTLE  ISLANDS. 


Grand  combinations,  too,  of  the  river  and  meadows  are  to 
be  had  in  short  drives.  There  are  several  hills  of  moderate 
height  about  the  town,  from  which  can  be  seen,  so  long  as  the 
season  lasts,  tints  as  tender,  hues  as  vivid  or  modest,  reflections 
as  cunningly  caught  in  the  surrounding  lakes,  as  can  be  found  any- 
where. Two  lakes,  with  high  banks  crowned  with  pleasant  groves, 
lie  at  the  foot  of  the  main  street.  The  attractive  feature  of  the 
locality  is  the  "  Chain  o'  Lakes,"  two  and  one-half  miles  from 
the  town.  Linked  together  by  deep,  clear  channels,  are  eight 
lakes,  which  present  a  scene  of  enchanting  loveliness.  The  waters 
are  cold  and  remarkably  clear.  Fish  swarm  as  plentifully  as  they 
did  before  the  shores  felt  the  impress  of  the  white  man's  foot. 


1 


I  "{'  ■ 


"  Here  the  old  smoked  in  silence  their  pipes,  and  the  young 
To  the  pike  and  the  black  bass  their  baited  lines  flung ; 
Where  the  boy  shaped  his  arrows,  and  where  the  shy  maid 
Wove  her  many-hued  baskets  and  bright  wampum  braid." 

At  sunset  the  lakes,  from  a  bird's-eye  point  of  view,  lie  in  an 
enchanted  maze,  scattered  through  forest  and  cultivated  glade — 
a  tremulous  skein  of  wonderfully  colored  waters,  with  verdured 
symmetry,  touched  with  deep  rich  orange,  or  showing  glossy 
stretches  of  delicate  bluish  greens  and  grays,  and  smooth,  dusky 
reaches  :.,iong  the  shore,  with  indistinct  headlands  in  the  distance, 
where  the  foliage  is  massed  in  vague  and  shadowy  forms. 

The  greatest  charm  of  the  place  lies  in  these  views  and  the 
choice  facilities  for  boating.  There  are  a  hundred  boats  on  the 
"chain"  at  the  service  of  the  tourist.  A  trip  through  the  lakes 
or  down  the  sweeping  current  of  Waupaca  River,  will  afford  many 
a  dissolving  view  singularly  rich  in  fascinating  beauty.  In  Green- 
wood Park,  on  the  "chain,"  is  a  good  hotel,  with  accommoda- 
tions for  150  guests.  At  Waupaca  trains  stop  for  meals.  Here, 
as  at  Abbotsford,  the  Railroad  Company  owns  the  eating-house, 
which  fact  is  a  guarantee  of  excellent  meals. 


Scenes  on  the  Route  to  Ashland. 


iii 


rt''i 


22 


THE  APOSTLE  ISLANDS. 


Beyond  Stevens  Point,  where  the  road  cros3e>  the  Wisconsin 
River,  the  Hne  extends  for  200  miles  through  p,  vast  forest.     The 
train  passes  on  as  if  entering  a  tunnel,  and  throughout  the  bal- 
ance of  the  journey  the  sound  of  the  locomotive  whistle  strikes  the 
clear  air,  dying  in  long,  lingering  echoes.    Occasionally,  there  are 
dashes  through  exquisite  groves  of  soft  balsam  firs  with  perfectly 
tapering,  cone-like  forms.     Lumber  mills  are  thickly  scattered  all 
along  the  route,  their  booms  of  brown  logs  glistening  in  the  brim- 
ming rivers.     Now  and  then  the  train  passes  a  typical  frontier 
village,  with  its  row  of  new  cabins,  showing  that  civilization  is  fast 
claiming  its  own.     It  is  not,  however,  until  the  tourist  arrives  at 
the  Penokee  Gap,  away  up  in  the  North,  where  the  line  runs  over, 
ragged  cliffs  and  through  deep  defiles,  where  the  streams  dash 
angrily  along  over  rocky  precipices  and  through  narrow  gorges 
around  the  hills  (where  are  hidden  great  deposits  of  valuable  ores), 
that  the  Superior  country  is  reached.     Emerging  from  the  majesty 
of  the  shadowy  height,  the  train  crosses  Bad  River  seventeen 
times  in  nine  miles,  and  sweeps  from  curve  to  curve,  swiftly,  ever 
more  swiftly,  past  rapid  and  fall,  over  the  famous  iron  bridge 
down  to  Ashland  on  the  lake. 

A  visit  to  Lake  Superior  supplies  unending  resources  to  a 
traveler,  and  confers  lasting  benefits,  inasmuch  as  it  lifts  him  above 
the  world,  into  a  perception  and  love  of  the  refined  grandeur, 
the  chaste  sublimity,  the  airy,  refined  majesty,  supplemented  with 
the  polished  bloom  in  which  the  splendor  of  this  noble  body  of 

water  lies. 

The  first  impression  of  the  great  Chequamegon,  at  Ashland, 
is  one  of  unfeigned  surprise.  The  traveler  has  reached  the 
northern  border  of  a  vast  forest— the  largest  east  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains— which,  until  a  few  years  ago,  was  impassable ;  and 
here,  by  the  grace  of  modern  engineering  skill,  he  finds  him- 
self in  a  magnificent  hotel,  set  up  in  the  heart  of  the  prim- 
eval wilderness,  and  that,  too,  but  a  few  hours  distant  from  Mil- 


'  ■*'4.j 


AND  LAKE  SUPERIOR. 


28 


waukee  or  Chicago.  The  contrast  is  greater  because  of  the  sud- 
denness of  the  vision.  The  train  arrives  about  seven  in  the  even- 
ing,  and  soon  the  hotel  is  aflame  with  its  thousand  lights ;  the 
ear  is  met  with  strains  of  music  aad  the  gentle  hum  of  contented 
voices  from  the  spacious  parlors.  There  is  an  impression  of  ele- 
gahce,  ease  and  luxury.  Here  we  find  quiet  and  peace;  soft 
carpets  and  elaborate  furnishings.  Here  gas,  water,  electric  bells, 
a  thousand  feet  of  veranda,  fountains,  fire-escapes  from  every 
room  (in  case  of  dread  calamity),  and  solicitous  but  unobtrusive 
attendants— all  within  a  distance  of  a  mile  from  clusters  of  Indian 
lodges,  with  their  flickering  camp-fires. 

The  grand  parlor  of  this  famous  hotel  is  the  finest  room  of  the 
kind  in  the  West.  It  is  very  large,  with  deep  windows  hung 
with  rich,  heavy  curtains,  and  carpeted  with  "  Wilton,"  noiseless 
to  the  tread.  Those  who  have  visited  the  White  Mountains  will 
remember  the  old-fashioned  fire-place  at  the  Glenn  House.  Here 
the  same  thing  has  beer  reproduced  on  a  grander  scale,  and  is  a 
feature  of  the  "  Chequamegon."  Ashland  is  so  far  north  that  it 
is  cool  even  in  July ;  and  the  fire  made  in  this  with  cordwood 
sends  forth  its  hospitable  blaze  to  welcome  the  traveler  on  the 
arrival  of  each  train. 

The  sense  of  rest  is  profound.  The  hotel  is  full,  for  500 
guests  are  occupying  rooms  in  the  house ;  but  there  is  none  of 
the  crush  and  turmoil  of  metropolitan  hotels.  There  is  an  occa- 
sional dance,  and  then  there  comes  the  rush  of  a  hund  '  flying 
feet j  but  the  hop  is  early  finished,  and  one  is  lulled  to  ^eep  by 
the  gentle  swash  of  the  restless  surf  at  the  foot  of  the  bluflf,  a 
hundred  feet  below  the  noble  park  on  which  stands  the  grand 
hotel.  With  break  of  day,  a  vision  of  enchantment  lies  before  the 
eye.  Far  down  to  the  lake,  the  Chequamegon  Bay  stretches  like 
a  sheet  of  silver  between  the  dark-green  wooded  heights,  which 
array  themselves  by  rapid  turns  in  tints  of  violet  and  purple  and 
cloaks  of  gold,  as  the  sun  touches  each  peak  that  still  smokes 


The  Hotel  Dock,  Ashland,  Wis. 


LAKE  SUPERIOR. 


25 


with  the  fragrant  exhalations  of  morning;  and  in  the  distance 
four-and-twenty  islands,   forming  a  lovely  group,  float  warm  in 
the  sunny,  shining  mists  that  hang  about  them  in  a  faint  mirage. 
It  is  difficult  to  explain  the  feeling  of  exhilaration  which  takes 
full  possession  of  the  nerves  and  senses.     Perhaps  it  is  the  fresh, 
untamed  wilderness,  full  of  aromatic  breezes;  perhaps  it  is  the 
symmetrical  beauty  of  the  landscape  and  water  view.     The  bit  of 
civilization  about  the  hotel  and  town  adds  sharpness  to  the  pleas- 
ant contrast.     If  you  look  from  the  veranda,  groups  of  merry 
children,  with  rosy  cheeks  and  flashing  eyes,  are  romping  on 
the  green  turf.     A  young  lady,  in  a  broad-brimmed  hat,  reading 
the  latest  novel,  swings  lazily  in  a  hammock  in  one  ot  the  numer- 
ous  tents   spread  over   the   lawn.      Boys,  in  sailor  hats,  move 
jauntily  along  the  pier.    It  is,  perhaps,  rather  early  for  the  gentle- 
men to  take  a  hand  at  billiards;  but  some,  with  a  view  of  getting 
up  an  appetite  for  breakfast,  are  spinning  the  balls  in  the  bowl- 
ing-alley.    Directly  across  the  bay,  and  near  the  center  of  the 
bold  wooded  rim  which  skirts  the  opposite  snore,  the  new  village 
of  Washburn  is  seen  nestling  in  among  the  pines,  which  sweep 
back  from  the  water's  edge  to  the  misty  blue  horizon,  forming  the 
background  of  one  of  Nature's  grandest  landscapes.     Here  and 
there,  in  the  distance,   are  sail  craft  lazily  floating  along  with 
the  wind.      A  swift-running   steamboat  is  drawing  towards  the 
hotel  dock  to  take  a  load  of  excursionists  to  the  Apostle  Islands. 
A  barge,  with  slow-moving  wheels  and  a  long  line  of  rafts  in  tow, 
crawls  past  the  outer  pier;  while  an  occasional  canoe  rises  and 
dips  with  the  undulating  waters.     Before,  is  the  broad  expanse  of 
the  inland  sea;  behind,  the  dark,  dense  forest;  and  all  about,  the 
clear,  bracing,  stimulating  air,  every  breath  of  which  fills  one 
with  new  life  and  vigor. 

Thus  far  the  tourist  has  only  taken  a  general  survey  of  the 
situation,  and  caught  something  of  the  spirit  of  the  scenes  about 
him ;  the  effect  will  be  considerably  enhanced  as  he  goes  abroad 
through  the  surrounding  country. 


8f  5 


26 


THE  APOSTLE  ISLANDS, 


This,  in  brief,  is  a  home  for  the  summer.  Those  who  row  up 
the  beautiful  streams  and  drop  hook  in  the  limpid  waters ;  who 
steam  out  among  the  islands,  where  every  turn  of  the  wheel  opens 
a  new  and  enchanting  view ;  who  wander  among  the  caves  formed 
in  the  sandstone  by  the  surf  of  "Getchee  Gumme;"  who  sit  on 
the  broad  piazza  of  "The  Chequamegon,"  and  view  the  most 
gorgeous  sunsets  across  a  bay  rivaling  that  of  Naples ;  who  dip 
their  cups  in  the  pure  waters  of  the  spring,  and  open  their  chests 
to  breathe  an  air  balmy  as  that  of  Eden,  will  bless  the  happy 
chance  that  brought  them  to  Nature's  choicest  blessing. 


III. 


"  Now  I  am  on  the  lake's  wide  shore. 
What  a  landscape  lies  before  ! 
No  clouds,  no  vapors  intervene ; 

But  the  gay,  the  open  scene, 
^J^.yp'""      Does  the  face  of  Nature  show 
-^  In  all  the  hues  of  heaven's  bow  !" 


ONG  excursions  from  Ashland  are 
made  by  water,  with  one  or  two  ex- 
ceptions, and  can  therefore  be  partici- 
pated in  by  the  invalid  as  well  as  by 
the  more  robust  traveler.  Those  who  do  not  like  the  water  will 
find,  within  a  few  moments'  walk  from  the  hotel,  much  to  repay 
their  trouble.  There  are  the  scattered  Indian  settlements,  where 
the  wigwams  are  clustered  in  artistic  groups,  and  surrounded  by 
bundles  of  neatly  packed  birch-bark  for  making  canoes,  and  usu- 
ally a  few  of  these  beautiful  craft  may  be  seen  in  process  of  con- 
struction. Some  few  points  can  be  reached  by  rowboats  or  sailing 
yachts  from  the  fleet  moored  at  the  hotel  pier ;  notably,  the  fine 
rock-fishing  grounds  directly  across  the  bay,  where,  at  certain 
seasons,  speckled  trout  swarm  at  the  mouths  of  several  good 
streams. 

Extended  excursions  are  best  made  by  the  staunch  steamer 
connected  with  the  hotel,  or  by  other  steamboats,  of  which  there 
are  three  or  four  in  regular  trade  between  Ashland,  Washburn 
and  Bayfield.  Starting  from  Ashland  at  nine  in  the  morning  a 
tour  of  the  bay,  including  stops  at  various  points,  can  be  made  in 
a  day,  for  which  service  a  very  moderate  charge  is  made.     As 


■ 


i 


LU 

1- 
o 


o 

(3 

OJ 


O 
ijj 

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of 
o 

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< 

Q- 

Q 


'I! 


LAKE  SUPERIOR, 


29 


the  boat  ipidly  moves  out  in  the  fairy-land,  the  islands  are  seen 
installed  in  a  magnificent  group  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach;  they 
appear  to  float  as  on  liquid  silver  and  to  glide  by  each  other 
silently,  as  m  the  movements  of  a  dance,  while  the  boat  moves 
on  Its  way;  the  bay  seems  to  pause  in  its  ceaseless  motion ;  the 
lake  sleeps  and  dreams. 

Daily  trips  are  thus  made  down  and  across  the  bay  (seventeen 
miles)  to  Bayfield,  locally  known  as  the  ''village  of  fountains,"  a 
snug  httle  hamlet  wlih  neat  cottage  homes  and  pretty  gardens 
scattered  up  the  hillside,  with  a  magnificent  prospect  of  the  bay 
and  islands.     At  nearly  every  house  is  a  natural  fountain,  sup- 
plied  by  perennial  springs  having   their   origin   in   the  heights 
overlooking  the  village.     Here  and  there  may  be  seen  half-  breed 
fishermen,  whose  smacks  are  moored  at  the  pier  or  drawn  upon 
the  beach;    Indians  in  their  blankets,  with  good-natured  faces; 
the  gentle  Franciscan  monks,  who  move  quiedy  about  the  streets 
on  errands  of  peace  and  mercy;  and  the  sturdy  lumbermen  and 
men  of  business  are  characteristic  figures.     Bayfield  is  alre.Ay 
well  known  as  a  favorite  resort.     The  leading  hotel  (The  Island 
View  House)  has  a  reputation  for  its  excellent  accommodations, 
Its  good  table  and  its  reasonable  charges.     A  comprehensive  view 
of  the  entire  country  can  be  had  from  the  top  of  the  Government 
Outlook,  which  stands  on  one  of  the  lofty  hills  back  of  Bayfield. 
A  short  walk  will  take  the  visitor  to  the  foot  of  the  structure,  and 
the  ascent  can  be  made  in  a  few  moments.     A  wonderful  spec- 
tacle will  dawn  upon  the  vision  of  the  beholder.     The  Apostle 
Islands,  twenty-four  in  number,  are  at  his  feet,  like  so  many  dia- 
monds in  the  placid  waters  of  the  bay;  away  and  beyond  them 
to  the  east  and  north,  the  vast  expanse  of  "Gitchee  Gumee,"  the 
"'Big  Sea  Water,"  is  spread  out  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach;  the 
shore  of  the  rugged  north  coast,  with  its  range  of  hills,  is  distinct- 
ly outlined;  to  the  south  and  west  the  unbroken  forest  of  hard 
>vood  and  pine,  in  all  its  primeval  grandeur,  whose  statel)   old 


Excursion  Steamer  "S.  B,  Barker." 


\l    ! 


LAKE  SUPERIOR. 


31 

pines,  hoary  with  age,  appear  likT^l^rtoTi^eT^WcVc"^ 
et  up  when  Noah  is  put  forth  to  watch  the  animals  emerging 
from   ehUdhood's  ark;  the  Penokee  range  of  mountains,  slty 
mUes  distant,  looms  up,  clearly  showing  ^'  the  gap  "  through  which 
Bad  River  breaks.     The  eye  can  wander,  checked  only  by  the 
power  of  vision      The  whole  presents  a  panorama  that  uUerly 
dwarfs  our  feeble  efforts  to  describe.     Across  the  bay  lies  Old 
Fort  the  site  of  the  first  settlement  on  Madelaine  Island,  one  of 
the  Apostle  Group,  long  famous  in  connection  with  Pere  Mar 
quette,  who  established  a  mission  there  in  1660.     Old  Fort  lies 
opposite  Chewamic  lighthouse,  at  the  entrance  t'o  the  north  chan- 
nel, where  there  is  another  fine  prospect  in  every  direction.    Wild 
strawberries  and  blueberries  grow  in  great  profusion  during  the 

mTi'-    "tT  ^7  '"   '^'  '"^'^^'^'^  ^"^^-^^^"^  trolling-ground. 
Madelame  Island  may  be  reached  by  rowboat  from  Bayfield  or 

the  excursion  steamer  will  stop  on  the  passage  from  and  to  Ash- 
land, permitting  several  hours'  visit  to  places  of  interest      La 
Pomte  IS  the  chief  of  these;  it  is  in  itself  an  illustrated  volume 
The  pier  over  which  the  waves  dash  is  the  same  used  by  Astor 
years  ago,  when  loading  his  furs  for  the  Eastern  market;  the  fish- 
ing smacks  and  canoes  lying  on  the  sand, -surrounded  by  reels  of 
nets  drymg  in  the  sun,  and  the  rickety,  weather-beaten  cottages 
full  of  the  pleasant  tints  of  age,  form  a  delightful  picture.     The 
silent,  sunny,  picturesque  old  place  is  steeped  in  a  mellow  atmos- 
phere of  age.      It  was  founded  200  years  ago  by  the  Jesuits,  and 
was  for  a  long  time  the  seat  of  the  head  office  of  the  American 
Fur  Company ;  and  as  you  sit  down  on  the  steps  of  some  deserted 
house,  fancy  will  recall  many  a  story  of  days  gone  by;  of  the 
voyageurs  and  the  dark-eyed   half-breed   maidens  who   danced 
upon  the  green  sward,  full  of  laughter ;  of  Indian  wars  and  coun- 
cils in  early  years ;  of  monks,  long  since  at  rest,  who  threaded  the 
forest  on  foot  or  in  bark  canoe;  and  of  many  a  storm  and  ship- 
wreck,    mere  is  still  remaining  in  good  preservation  a  church 


ill 


mm 


LAKE  SUPERIOR. 


33 


m  which  service  is  regularly  held,  built  by  Bishop  Baraga  in  part 
from  the  older  church  of  Marquette,  which  contains  many  relics 
and  curiosities;  among  the  rest  an  old  painting,  -The  Descent 
from  the  Cross,"  on  hand-made  canvas,  brought  there  by  the 
founder  in  1669.  In  front  lies  the  ancient  burial  ground  before 
referred  to,  where  rest  the  dead  of  txyo  centuries. 

Washburn  is  another  bright  and  active  little  city  on  Che- 
quamegon  Bay,  where  there  are  extensive  docks  for  handling  lake 
freights. 

Washburn  is  located  directly  across  the  bay  opposite  Ashland 
and  distant  six  miles  by  water.  The  Townsite  Company  has 
built  a  fine  hotel,  called  "  Hotel  Washburn,"  which  is  richly  fur- 
nished and  exceedingly  well  kept  by  Davis  &  Barker,  both 
experienced  hotel  men.  The  town  is  beautifully  located  on  high 
ground  overlooking  the  bay,  and  is  rapidly  assuming  commercial 
importance. 

Daily  connections  are  made  between  the  trains  of  the  Wis- 
consin Central  Railroad  at  Ashland  (morning  and  evening)  and 
Washburn  by  the  Central's  elegant  excursion  steamer  "  S.  B.  Bar- 
ker," which  lands  its  passengers  at  their  destination  in  thirty  min- 
utes from  the  time  of  leaving  her  dock  at  the  Hotel  Chequame- 
gon.  The  fine  steam-yacht  "Waubun"  is  also  engaged  in  the 
same  trade.  Trips  across  the  bay  on  these  charming  steamers  are 
always  safe  and  enjoyable,  and  form  a  delightful  feature  of  the 
tourists'  life. 

Adjacent  to  Washburn  is  Houghton  Point,  long  a  favorite 
picnic  and  camping  site  for  parties  from  Ashland.  Houghton  is 
a  bold  promontory  rising  abruptly  an  hundred  and  fifty  feet  from 
the  level  of  the  bay,  and  has  been  selected  as  the  location  of  a 
large  hotel,  soon  to  be  built.  A  party  of  capitalists  have  the  mat- 
ter in  charge,  and  before  another  year  rolls  around  a  caravansary 
will  be  erected  on  this  favored  spot  which  will  rival  the  famous 

r^\i 


rK^r,,,^ 


:h 


equaincgoa. 


I 


•«  f  ( 


Bayfield  and  La  Pointe. 


LAKE  SUPERIOR, 


85 


At  Montreal  River,  thirty  miles  east  of  Ashland,  along  the 
coast,  IS  a  magniticent  waterfall,  120  feet  high,  which  is  well 
worth  a  visit.  It  can  be  easily  reached  by  the  steam-yachts  at 
the  service  of  the  guests  of  "  The  Chequamegon." 

One  of  the  leading  fishing  stations  near  at  hand  is  Chewamic 
Point.  Whitefish  and  trout  are  here  taken  by  tons,  and  there  are 
few  sights  more  interesting  than  the  drawing  in  of  a  pound-net 
(an  every-day  occurrence),  the  contents  of  which  so  completely 
fill  the  boats  that  the  fishermen  often  stand  knee-deep  in  a 
wriggling,  squirming  mass.  The  Government  lighthouse,  whose 
beaming  light  is  the  mariner's  guide,  is  but  a  step  off.  The 
watchful  keeper  is  always  glad  to  see  the  chance  visitor. 

Delightful  trips  can  also  be  made  to  the  magnificent  rock  scen- 
ery on  the  coast  toward  Duluth,  or  among  the  Apostle  Islands. 
Days  may  be  spent  among  these  islands,  camping,  exploring 
caves,  or  fishing;  and  one  can  never  exhaust  the  delightful  and 
changing  panoramic  features,  which  in  infinite  variety  continually 
pass  before  the  eye  in  ever  new  and  witching  forms  of  beauty. 

Odanah— Among  all  the  excursions  mentioned  as  being  profit- 
able to  the  sojourner  at  Ashland,  none  offers  more  picturesque 
features  than  the  trip  to  Odanah.     It  can  be  reached  by  boat  up 
Bad  River,  or  made,  as  it  was  by  the  daughter  of  the  writer,  in 
company  with  several  other  ladies,  by  road  through  the  forest. 
If  the  former  route  is  taken  at  the  proper  season,  the  rice  swamps 
en  voyage  are  seen  dotted  with  Indians  tying  the  rice  in  bunches 
for  harvesting.     The  method  of  threshing,  if  so  it  can  be  called, 
is  very  primitive;  it  consists  in  simply  shaking  the  gr.iin  from  the' 
stalks  into  the  canoe.     Here,  too,  may  be  seen  the  long  winding 
river  with  Indian  lodges  on  the  banks ;  the  usual  complement  of 
canoes  turned  up  along  the  shore ;  the  great  booms  of  logs  and 
the  crowds  of  sturdy  drivers  in  blue  shirts  and  high  boots,  jaunty 
caps  and  scarlet  breeches ;  and  the  Indian  village  itself  with  its 
Mission,  its  crowds  of  braves  along  the  shore,  and  possible  medi- 


-«^ 


The  Outlook, 


Bass  Island  Quarry, 


Lone  Rock, 


LAKE  SUPERIOR. 


37 


cine  (lance.  Odanah  is  situated,  as  we  have  hinted,  on  Had 
River,  which  to  this  point  is  a  navigable  stream,  but  away  up  in 
the  mountains  at  Penokee  (lap  it  is  a  rushing,  unmanageable  tor- 
rent. Between  this  point  and  the  Gap  is  abundant  material  for 
the  artist;  he  will  find  several  splendid  waterfalls  and  rocky  gor- 
ges. There  is  also  an  old  abandoned  copper- mine  left  by  the 
early  explorers. 

Aside  from  these  excursions,  agreeable  mainly  because  of 
their  picturesque  features,  there  is  ample  oi)portunity  for  pisca- 
torial sport  along  the  innumerable  lakes  and  streams.  Many 
of  these  are  close  at  hand.  Chequamegon  Bay  itself  is  a  basin 
which  receives  the  waters  of  a  score  of  beautiful  streams,  between 
whose  banks  disport  legions  of  speckled  beauties,  and  there  are 
good  rock-fishing  grounds  directly  across  the  Bay  opposite  the 
hotel ;  while  within  a  distance  of  forty  miles,  accessible  by  rail  or 
by  any  of  the  steam  or  sailing  yachts,  are  the  following  noted 
streams :  Silver  Creek  (near  by),  Marengo,  Trout  Brook  and 
Brunschweiller,  Upper  White  River,  Long  Lake  (a  branch  of 
White  River),  West  Branch  of  White  River,  Brule  River,  Fish 
Creek,  Whittlesey's  Creek,  Bono's  Creek,  Vanderventer's  Creek, 
Sioux  River,  Onion  River,  Pike's  Creek,  Raspberry  River,  Bark 
Point  Creek,  Siscowit,  Iron  River,  and  many  other  streams,  in 
almost  any  -^f  which  150  trout  is  an  easy  day's  catch.  The 
sportsman  is,  however,  by  no  means  confined  to  trout,  there  being 
numerous  lakes  within  easy  reach  which  swarm  with  pickerel  and 
muskalonge.  Specimens  of  these  kinds,  weighing  twenty-five 
and  even  thirty  pounds,  have  often  been  caught. 

Those  disposed  to  make  extended  excursions  can  easily  reach 
the  fine  scenery  of  Isle  Royal  and  the  North  Shore,  by  regular 
steamboat  connecdon,  or  a  party  can  be  made  up  for  the  hotel 
boat  for  a  trip  to  Fort  William  and  Prince  Arthur's  Landing,  and 
the  great  copper  mines  on  Keweenaw  Point. 

Ashland  is  not  dependent  on  the  Wisconsin  Central  Railroad 


•i 


LAKE  SUPERIOR. 


3» 


alone  for  its  conn.;ction  with  the  outer  world,  although  that  i» 
the  best  route,  inasmuch  as  !;>  this  route  are  run  through 
coaches,  palace  sleepers  and  superb  parlors  from  Ashland  to 
Chicago  and  Milwaukee  without  ch.v^e.  The  Chicago,  St.  Pai.l, 
Minneapolis  &  Oi..,ha  Railway  runs  a  branch  to  the  place  with 
daily  trains.  The  Northern  Pacific  Railroad  will  probably,  by 
the  time  this  little  pamphlet  is  before  the  public  complete  its  line 
to  Ashland,  and  make  this  point  the  eastern  terminus  of  its  hne. 
All  the  boats  of  the  Lake  Superior  lines  make  it  a  regular  stop- 
ping place  also. 

Thus  it  will  be  seen  that  the  Apostle  Islands,  Chequamegon 
Bay  and  Lake  Superior  oflfer  to  the  tourist,  the  pleasure  seekei, 
the  angler  and  sportsman  and  the  tired  invalid,  facilities  where 
each  may  pursue  the  search  for  that  he  so  ardently  desires,  with 
certainty  of  success.  The  story  of  the  advantages  of  Ashland 
has  not  been  overdrawn.     In  conclusion  : 

Go  where  primeval  forest  scarce  has  felt 
The  touch  of  ax,  or  heard  the  womhiian's  cry; 

Go  where  the  monks  of  old  once  humbly  knelt, 
And  lifted  voice  in  prayer  to  God  on  high; 

Go  where  the  Indian,  .emnant  of  his  race, 

Divested  of  his  fierce  accoutrement. 
Consents  to  work,  as  does  the  mild  pale-face, 

Without  appeal  to  war's  arbitrament; 

Go  where  bold  stands  upon  the  lake-laved  bluff, 

The  spacious  hostelry— a  stately  pl.-'je — 
Where  welcome  greets  the  guest,  who  ne'er  enough 

Can  praise  the  table's  cheer  or  landlord's  grace;  * 

Go  where  the  lake,  the  chief  of  all  delights, 

Mild-swept  by  winds  with  healing  on  their  wings, 

Crisp  mirrors  in  its  depths  the  pine-clad  heights, 
And  lulls  the  senses  by  its  murmurings. 


t 

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i 
a 
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p 


s 
k 


71PPENDIX. 


HAY    FEVKR. 

Dr.  Arthur  Holbrook,  a  sufferer  from  Hay  Fever,  and  ex-Vice  President  of 
the  Hay  Fever  Association  of  the  United  States,  has  kindly  written  the  accom- 
panying essay  on  that  disease  and  its  effectual  cure  by  a  trip  to  Lake  Superior  : 

The  increasing  prevalence  of  "  Hay  Fever  "  in  this  country,  and  the  failure 
ol  all  treatment  m  relieving  the  sufferings  of  its  victims,  is  a  fact  generally 
recognized.  Over  fifty  thousand  families  in  the  United  States  are  dreading 
the  coming  of  August.     The  subject,  therefore,  is  one  of  general  interest. 

The  country  is  flooded  with  flaming  advertisements  promising  relief  and 
cure.  Sufferers,  in  their  desperation,  grasp  at  every  straw,  and  thus  nostrums 
and  impostors  are  multiplying. 

In  order  to  prefect  the  afflicted,  and  to  correctly  inform  them  concerning 
the  nature  and  treatment  of  their  trouble,  a  society  known  as  «*The  United 
States  Hay  Fever  Association"  was  formed  ai  Bethlehem,  N.  H.,  in  1874. 
It  meets  annually,  with  representatives  from  nearly  every  State  andTerritoiy  in 
the  Union.  It  has  employed  every  available  means  within  its  power  to  dis- 
cover a  remedy,  and  has  published  each  year  the  results  of  its  labors.  There 
IS  no  known  remedy  for  the  disease,  except  a  flight  to  an  "  exempt "  region, 
and  among  the  few  regions  east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  none  are  more 
highly  recommended.by  the  Association  than  the  Lake  Superior  countr)'.  But 
It  must  be  remembered  this  is  a  vast  and  varied  territory,  and  all  portions  are 
not  alike  exempt,  and  places  once  exempt  may  become  objectionable,  and,  in 
fact,  may  have  already  become  unbearable  to  hay  fever  subjects. 

The  safety  of  a  place  must  be  determined  by  trial.  '•  No  one  can  predict 
of  any  region  what  will  be  its  effect  upon  a  subject  of  this  disease.  Even  in 
the  most  favorable  localities  in  the  exempt  regions,  the  noise  and  whirls  of  city 
life,  the  dingy  smoke  from  furnaces  and  forges,  the  dust  and  filth  from 
unsprinkled  and  unkept  streets,  the  emanation  from  decaying  substances,  the 
propagation  of  weeds  and  noxious  forms  of  vegetation,  etc.,  etc.,  will  fre- 
quently produce  intense  and  lasting  paroxysms. 

Therefore,  the  Chequamegon  District  offers  extra  attractions  for  the  hay 
fever  refugees,  because — 

1.  It  is  most  favorably  located  in  the  heart  of  the  exempt  regions. 

2.  It  is  easily,  quickly  and  cheaply  reached. 

3.  It  is  free  from  sand,  dust,  smoke,  reflections,  etc. 

4.  It  is  quiet  or  lively  as  may  be  desired,  with  choice  of  water  or  woods, 
game  or  fish,  baiting  or  bowling,  solitude  or  company. 

5.  It  is  a  place  where  all  hay  fever  moods  can  be  satisfied.  It  is  well 
known  that  the  moods  of  the  hay-feverites  are  as  variable  as  the  wind,  and 


42 


APPENDIX. 


here,  among  the  variety  of  attractions  offered,  the  health-seeker  can  find  com- 
fort and  pleasure  adapted  to  any  mood. 

An  experience  of  many  successive  years,  embracing  every  available  point 
in  the  Lake  Su^  ^or  region,  enables  the  writer  to  speak  understandingly  of 
that  section,  and  whether  at  the  immense  "  Chequamegon  caravansary,"  with 
its  menu  fit  for  a  king,  or  among  the  glens  and  glades  of  the  grand  old  forest, 
with  its  happy  companions  and  the  rough  camp  tare,  it  has  ever  been  his  good 
fortune  to  find  pleasure,  rest  and  health.  His  waking  hours  and  dreams  at 
home  are  burdened  with  the  recollection  of  the  happy  hours  passed  there,  and 
filled  with  plans  for  coming  seasons. 

Hay  fever,  hay  cold,  hay  asthma,  autumnal  catarrh  and  various  other 
names  are  applied  to  a  peculiar  affection  which  appears  annually  about  the 
20th  of  August,  and  usually  lasts  until  after  frost  comes. 

Rose  cold,  peach  cold,  June  cold,  July  cold,  summer  catarrh  and  other 
names  are  applied  to  the  same  or  a  similar  affection,  which  appears  earlier  in 
the  season,  but  is  not  characterized  by  the  regularity,  specific  symptoms, 
extreme  severity  and  natural  limit  of  duration  of  the  August  form.  It  is  not 
intended,  in  the  present  paper,  to  more  than  notice  some  of  the  prominent 
features  of  "  Hay  Fever,"  which  may  possibly  enable  those  who  are  not 
familiar  with  its  character,  to  form  some  idea  of  its  magnitude,  history  and 
depressing  influences. 

The  term  "  Hay  Fever"  is  a  misnomer,  and  does  not  express  its  origin, 
or  suggest  a  definition  of  its  character. 

The  distinctions  between  the  two  forms  of  the  disease  mentioned  above 
must  be  borne  in  mind.  The  term  "  Hav  Fever"  in  the  present  paper 
refers  only  to  the  later  or  August  form.  The  disease  was  first  noticed  and 
described  by  an  English  author  in  1819,  and  its  appearance  at  the  season  of 
hay-making  in  that  country,  or  the  irritating  effect  of  hay  upon  the  disease, 
soon  gave  it  the  popular  title  it  now  possesses. 

The  English  form  corresponds  more  directly  with  the  earlier  American, 
and  the  application  of  the  term  to  the  later  form  undoubtedly  arose  from  a 
confusion  of  symptoms.  In  this  country  the  hay  has  been  cured  and  stored 
weeks  before  the  disease  makes  its  appearance,  and  many  persons  afflicted 
with  •'  Hay  J'ever  "  are  not  affected  in  any  manner  by  hay.  Thus  the  name 
is  inappropriate,  and  is  only  accepted  from  universal  usage.  It  will  undoubt- 
edly continue  in  use  until  the  disease  is  more  generally  understood. 

Hay  Fever  is  a  constitutional  disturbance,  and  the  local  symptoms  which 
periodically  manifest  themselves  are  induced  and  developed  by  irritating  or 
exciting  substances  and  surroundings.  It  is  a  peculiar  condition  of  the  sys- 
tem which  is  not  yet  perfectly  understood,  and  which  renders  the  subject 
"  sensitive  "  to  the  lightest  disturbing  influences.  In  a  similar  manner,  some 
people  are  sensitive  to  the  lightest  influence  of  certain  foods,  such  as  straw- 
berries, shell-fish,  melons,  eggs,  buckwheat,  chestnuts  and  various  other 
articles;  or  to  the  odor  of  certain  flowers,  fruits,  plants  and  various  vege- 
tables; or  to  the  presence  of  feathers,  heat,  confined  air,  and  other  matters. 
The  presence  of  these  articles  in  the  neighborhood  can  be  immediately 
detected  by  the  sensitive,  and  are  unnatural  pnd  unbearable  to  their  senses. 

Why  this  peculiar  condition  exists  in  certain  individuals,  and  does  not  in 
others,  is  not  for  us  to  decide;  but  the  fact  is  apparent  to  all  that  whatever 
may  be  the  cause,  it  is  a  constitutional  disorder,  or  a  hyper-sensitive  condi- 
tion, and  lasts  for  all  time. 

The  symptoms  of  distress  in  a  hay-fever  sensitive  are  produced  by  influ- 
ences similar  to  the  aljove,  which  are  capable  of  disturbing  the  natural 
functions  in  an  extraordinary  degree.     This  peculiar  sensitiveness,  therefore. 


APPENDIX. 


43 


does  not  depend  upon  race,  sex,  or  climate,  but  may  exist  anywhere  or  every- 
where, out  IS  only  manifested  when  brought  in  contact  with  certain  forms 
ot  matter  or  agencies  which  have  the  power  of  controlling  its  appearance. 

Ihus  many  people  residing  outside  these  disturbing  influences  frequently 
become  victims  to  the  trouble  by  change  of  residence.  Nearly  all  sufferers 
tind  immediate  relief  by  leaving  their  homes  and  fleeing  to  some  locality 
where  the  sources  of  disturbance  do  not  exist. 

Hay  fever  has  been  carefully  studied  by  the  ablest  men  of  the  medical 
profession.  In  fact,  it  has  affected  some  of  the  leading  physicians  and  think- 
ers, and  the  world  has  the  benefit  of  their  experiences  and  of  the  very  best 
thought  which  can  be  applied  to  it. 

The  conclusions  of  all,  however,  are  the  same,  and  the  healing  art  is 
powerless  to  relieve  the  sufferer.     The  only  remedy  now  known  '\%  flight. 

There  are  various  valuable  works  upon  the  subject,  and  associations  are 
formed  for  mutual  benefit,  but  as  yet  there  has  not  been  found  any  specific 
or  general  treatment  which  will  permit  the  sensitive  to  remain  near  the 
influences  which  occasion  it  and  enjoy  any  degree  of  health  or  comfort. 

The  annual  report  for  1878,  of  the  Committee  on  Scientific  Facts  for  the 
United  States  Hay  P^ver  Association,  was  written  by  an  eminent  medical 
practitioner  in  Connecticut  and  contains  the  following  closing  advice: 

"  To  invigorate  the  nervous  system,  by  all  possible  means,  preceding  the 

''To  seek  relief  by  change  of  locality,  if  possible,  a  few  days  before  the 
advent  of  the  paroxysm. 

"To  keep  the  skin  in  active,  healthy,  working  order,  by  warm  baths  at 
bed-time  and  cold  sponging  with  active  rubbing  in  the  morning.     Better 
occasional  Turkish  or  Russian  Baths.  ' 

'•  To  regulate  the  bowels  and  kidneys. 

"To  live  mostly  for  a  while  preceding  the  critical  time,  upon  a  milk  diet 
supplemented  by  vegetables  and  little  or  no  meat,  once  daily,  fruit  in  the 
morning." 

These  reports  are  made  by  persons  best  qualified  to  j  udge,  who  are  suffer- 
ers and  whose  business  it  is  to  relieve  suffering  and  the  advice  given  is 
founded  upon  the  best  knowledge  of  the  disease  from  experience  and  obser- 
vation. 

For  the  benefit  of  those  who  are  not  familiar  with  the  disease  a  general 
description  of  the  symptoms  are  given: 

About  the  20th  of  August  an  unusual  tenderness  about  the  eves  and  nose 
is  noticed,  and  frequently  the  first  symptom  is  a  fit  of  excessive  sneezing; 
this  is  followed  by  a  free  watery  discharge  from  the  nose  and  eyes,  tickling 
in  the  throat  and  palate,  a  sense  of  suffocation  and  a  general  feeling  of  misery. 
The  eyes  are  blinded  with  water,  the  nose  requires  constant  attention  and 
frequently  the  passages  become  completf;ty  closed  for  days  or  weeks  at  a 
time,  and  the  patient  is  obliged  to  breathe  continually  through  the  mouth; 
loss  of  taste  and  smell,  inability  to  concentrate  thought  or  transact  business, 
and  often  followed  by  a  lingering  cough  or  an  attack  of  asthma.  These 
symptoms  usually  appear  in  the  order  named  and  continue  with  more  or  less 
severity  until  the  appearance  of  a  heavy  frost,  and  do  not  always  then  dis- 
appear, but  frequently  last  in  some  form  long  into  the  winter  months.  The 
rest  of  the  year  the  patient  is  quite  free  from  the  trouble,  but  many  are 
unusually  sensitive  to  dust  and  certain  odors  at  all  times. 

Of  course,  a  disease  so  universal  has  been  "  doctored  to  perfection,"  and 
thousands  continue  experimenting,  but  "  old  stagers  "  who  have  tried  every- 
thing, have  accepted  the  fact  of  its  incurabieness.      Many  remedies  which 


44 


APPENDIX. 


were  supposed  to  have  a  good  effect  one  year,  have  none  at  all  another  year, 
and  the  same  remedies  applied  to  other  cases  only  aggravate  the  trouble. 

The  aggravating  causes  must  be  removed,  or  the  patient  will  only  experi- 
ence a  battle  between  nature  and  human  skill,  with  the  same  odds  which 
always  favor  nature. 

Therefore  the  onlv  remedy  which  has  proved  reliable  is  flight  to  an  atmos- 
phere which  is  calculated  to  "  tone  up  "  the  general  system,  and  which  does 
not  contain  irritating  or  disturbing  forces. 

There  are  but  few  places  comparatively,  east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
which  meet  these  requirements,  and  some  of  the  places  which  have  afforded 
refuge  to  hay-fever  sensitives  in  the  past,  are  now  worthless  as  a  safe  resort 
on  account  of  the  introduction  of  the  sources  of  the  disturbance. 

It  is  generally  known  that  smoke,  ashes,  dust  and  cinders  aggravate  the 
trouble. 

The  special  forms  of  vegetation  which  produce  the  paroxysm  are  Roman 
wormwood,  rag-weed,  bitter-sweet,  flowering-corn,  and  various  other  ema- 
nations. 

It  must  not  be  inferred,  from  the  foregoing  description  and  enumeration, 
that  the  actual  causes  of  the  complaint  have  been  discovered,  or  that  the  special 
action  of  any  irritating  agent  is  definitely  understood,  for  it  is  well  known  that 
the  whole  subject  is  unsettled,  and  probably  will  be  for  all  time. 

For  instance,  a  substance  may  produce  the  most  violent  paroxysms  in  one 
person,  and  not  produce  any  effect  in  another;  and  again,  there  may  be  only 
one  source,  or  there  may  be  innumerable  sources;  or  the  same  source  may 
produce  varying  results,  at  different  times. 

Hay  Fever,  therefore,  is  an  idiosyncrasy;  a  complaint  peculiar  to  persons, 
climate  and  seasons.  Thousands  of  sufferers,  and  the  enlightened  portions  of 
the  medical  profession,  ha-'e  recognized  it  as  such,  and  the  only  treatment, 
consistent  with  intelligence  and  experience,  is  to  overcome  or  modify  the  disease 
by  flight.  If  a  suitable  refuge  is  reached  before  the  time  of  attack  arrives^ 
the  symptoms  will  not  appear  at  all;  and  if  it  is  reached  after  an  attack  has 
commenced,  the  symptoms  will  disappear  in  a  few  hours. 

The  Lake  Superior  region  offers  the  only  place  of  refuge  in  the  West,  and 
it  is  not  surpassed  as  a  reliable  refuge  by  any  other  section  of  this  country. 
This  lake  is  the  largest  body  of  fresh  water  on  the  globe;  its  surface  is  nearly 
seven  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea;  an  immense  forest  stretches  two 
hundred  miles  south  of  it;  a  lofty  range  of  mountainous  hills  protects  the 
southern  shore,  and  a  better  refuge  from  the  influences  which  cause  hay-fever 
cannot  be  imagined. 

The  atmosphere  there  is  so  pure  and  bracing  that  it  has  already  become 
known  the  world  over.  The  great  objection  to  this  region  heretofore  has  been 
the  tedious  manner  of  reaching  it,  and  a  lack  of  accommodations  when  reached. 
But  thanks  to  the  enterprise  of  a  few  far-seeing  people,  it  is  no  longer  a  weari- 
some journey  or  an  unsuitable  place  to  take  a  family.  The  Wisconsin  Central 
Railway  has  opened  a  thoroughfare  through  the  wilderness,  and  placed  one  of 
the  most  charming  places  for  rest  and  resort  within  a  few  hoars  ride  of  the 
western  metropolis. 

Passengers  landed  in  Ashland  are  surprised  to  find  the  evidence  of  progress 
which  greets  them — an  immense  hotel  with  modern  arrangements  and  conven- 
iences— a  delightful  resort  for  fashion  or  a  practical  refuge  for  weary  sufferers. 


Si 

o 

V 

ai 
V 

fa 


W 

sa! 
an 


mj 


MINBRHIi  gPRINS3. 


Wisconsin  is  :elebrated  for  its  mineral  and  medicinal  springs.  There  are 
several,  at  Ashland  noted  for  their  curative  properties.  The  best  of  these  is 
owned  by  the  Hotel  Company. 

It  contains  in  solution  the  various  ingredients  that  have  made  the  waters  of 
Waukesha  so  famous.  Mr.  Bode,  the  well  known  chemist,  has  made  a  careful 
analysis,  and  certifies  that  the  principal  constituents  are  the  same  as  those  of 
Waukesha,  except  that  the  medicinal  properties  are  in  very  much  greater  pro- 
portion.  ^ 

The  curative  properties  will,  without  doubt,  make  it  one  of  the  most 
famous  springs  on  this  contineht.     Appended  is  the  analysis  of  the  water: 

Office  of  Gustavus  Bode,  Chemist, 
T,,  .    .  .^     ,  Milwaukee,  Feb.  14,  1882. 

Ihis  IS  to  certify  that,  having  made  a  careful  analysis  of  the  waters  from 
Ashland  Spring,  I  find  that  one  gallon  of  the  same  contains  : 

Total  quantity  of  solid  substance,  43.6875  grains,  consisting  of— 


Chloride  of  Sodium, 
Sulphate  of  Soda, 
Bi-carbonate  of  Soda, 
Bi-carbonate  of  Lime, 
Bi-carbonate  of  Magnesia,    - 
Bi-carbonate  of  Proto-oxide  of  Iron, 
Alumina,  -  .  .  . 

Silica,        -  -  .  . 

Organic  Matter, 


0.2808  Grains, 

i.ooo^  " 

35275 

18.269s  " 

18.1233  " 

0.0292  " 

0.0877  " 

1.2870  " 

1.0822  " 


This  water  belongs  to  the  same  class  of  water  of  which  the  so-well-known 
Waukesha  waters  are  good  representatives;  it  is,  however,  much  stronger  in 
salts  than  any  of  them,  and  by  far  the  strongest  of  this  class  of  the  many 
analyzed  by  me.  The  effect  cannot  be  different;  it  may,  on  account  of  the 
greater  strength,  be  more  marked  and  quicker. 

Respectfully  yours, 

GUSTAVUS  BODE, 

Analytical  Chemist. 

This  spring  is  located  vqry  near  "The  Chequamegon,"  and  no  charge  is 
made  for  the  use  of  the  water,  which  is  served  free  to  guests  at  every  meal. 


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